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Saturday, March 29, 2008
Tabor Boy, her Captain and her crew, have returned to Marion! To everyone who worked so hard to provide this wonderful experience for our students, a heartfelt thank you!
Dr. John S. Crosby
Director
Caribbean Studies Program Director's Log - March 1 - 10, 2008
Cruise 6: Ms. Katherine Collins
Day 9 Sunday March 9
Today was our biggest research day of all. It was a perfect day to look at all the Elkhorn coral along the Honeymoon Beach area. There were calm seas, a light breeze, and beautiful sunshine. The students were in and out of the water photographing, mapping, and reporting on the vast amount of coral found here. Each time they returned to the vessel the information they accumulated was downloaded onto the computer. They would rinse off, have a snack and reload for another excursion. The students were great! The sea urchin count was very high, the highest we’ve had the whole trip! It was a very productive day for our project and the students were proud of their work. As a reward, they spent the latter part of the afternoon playing football at the beach. We were happy to see Chris Henry and Erik Geil arrive late this afternoon and the crew/officers have started to prepare for their offshore experience. As busy as we have been with the tasks at hand, there was lots of fun had by all.
Day 8 Saturday March 8
“Dontcha be puttin’ dat dare”
Well, we decided, we are not coming home. All of the students are now speaking in Caribbean tongue and eating the local foods. We set sail this morning by 7:20 and everyone was up and at it early. It was a gorgeous morning with another perfect breeze. Slightly heeled over we enjoyed breakfast underway which tested our balance and agility, especially when jibed! It was a great sail back to St. John. We enjoyed watching the 300- foot, square rigged Sea Cloud II sailing along with us most of the morning. Captain Red Shannon hailed the Tabor Boy and Captain Geil to say the he, and his passengers from the UK, enjoyed watching us under full sail. We arrived to Cruz Bay, St. John before noon and prepared to head into shore for lunch. Students and crew enjoyed the excursion and spent a little extra time shopping in the township. We returned to the boat and the students had a great research snorkel in Caneel Bay. When they returned to the vessel they were excited to find out that they would be scrubbing the decks and the vessel. It was hilarious to see everyone, rag or brush in hand, getting soaked and, literally, swabbing decks with music blaring having a blast. You realize that it’s the little things that bring simple happiness! It’s been another great day at sea.
Day 7 Friday March 7
“Two, Six! Heave!”
An all too familiar command at this point in the trip, we are all exhausted at the days end today. We hauled up the anchor and set sails for three different adventures today. We woke up at Salt Island and after our brief morning workout we skipped morning dip, a welcome break for the kids, began sail preparation. After breakfast and cleanup we were all excited to set-sail towards “The Baths” at Virgin Gorda. We could see the fat lady off in the distance as we enjoyed a near perfect sail. The breezes continue to be fair. During a brief snorkel Frances was able to clear her ears and dive down deeper than she had before. Casey gave her a large rock to hold, she sank to the bottom and cleared her ears on the way! That would come in handy later in the day. The Baths were amazing. Most had never seen anything quite like it and it was a playground/maze of climbing, swimming and hiking. All of us who experienced it were disappointed not to have a camera. That said, there is no way to capture this adventure on film and do it justice. It is impressive that each day just keeps getting better than the last. The great part about this trip is to see how much the kids really understand and appreciate just how fortunate they are to have this experience. The students have become a real cohesive, cooperative group and always are ready to participate and enjoy the experiences for all they are worth. After lunch, we set sail again and headed for Dog Island. While Captain Geil holds station on the schooner, the students were able to dive through “The Cathedral”. This is a large tunnel/cave about twenty-five feet below the surface and about fifteen in length. Casey challenged the students to give it a try. Many, very successfully with ease, were able to swim down and through the cave and back up again! Even Frances!! It was very cool. Once again, after the cheers and congratulations, we were back on board and set sail once more for Marina Cay. Just underway, a wetsuit flew overboard which gave the crew an opportunity to show-off there professionalism and retrieve the wetsuit in an all out Mob Drill. It was flawless and quite a sight to see. Very impressive. We arrived at Marina Cay and students were to an onboard shower (cold and under the hose) to “freshen up” for an evening on land. We were able to go ashore, visit Rob White’s original home, shop in the little shop and have a nice meal at Pusser’s Restaurant. For some, it was a challenge to be on dry land. The motion of the boat has now become a part of us and we continue to rock and feel sea legs on shore. It was an exhausting, fantastic day. Lights out is always a treat.
Day 6 Thursday March 6
“It’s quiet, too quiet…It’s wet, too wet!”
Underway by motor during breakfast cleanup we headed to Beneres Bay for a short snorkeling adventure. Students practiced their deep water snorkeling skills in preparation for the Rhone shipwreck. A plate, bottle and miscellaneous sand and shells were retrieved from the ocean floor at forty feet deep. Most students are very capable of diving pretty deep with ease at this point in the trip. We had a beautiful breeze and relaxing sail over to Salt Island where we anchored, ate lunch and listened intently to the history of the Island and the shipwreck of the RMS Rhone in 1867. She was wrecked off the coast of Salt Island during a hurricane. She was one of two “unsinkable” British ships. Cap is a great historian and storyteller. The students were fascinated and excited to hear of the wreck and dive the ruins. Most, if not all were able to dive to the depth of the propeller which is approximately 30 feet deep. Only four, Debi Lindsey, Tom Scudder, Shannon McCarthy and Joss Warren, were able to touch the “good-luck” porthole at depth nearing 40 feet. It was one of our most remarkable adventures so far. Despite their fatigue after a lot of time in the water, students were quite enthusiastic about exploring Salt Island and climbed two peaks around the island. It was awesome!
Day 5 Wednesday March 5
“What’s that big, tall thing in the middle of the boat?”
This was an incredibly busy day for all those on board. The kind of good, active business that makes you feel tired in the best way. As if you have accomplished something. We left the USVI early this morning to clear customs in Soper’s Hole, Tortola, BVI. As soon as we had the go ahead, we all went into shore for a brief excursion where students bought junk food and souvenirs. Boarding the boat quickly we got underway sailing towards Sandy Cay. Today was a spectacular sailing day and even the novices appreciate just how perfect it was. When Sandy Cay came into view it was breathtaking. The most pristine sparkling white sand and turquoise blue waters we have ever seen. Many pictures taken and not one can do it justice. All of the students and most of the crew headed to the beach for a football game on the beach. With very few tourists on the unpopulated island it was easy to feel as if it was our own. Boys beat girls in a knock down drag out game with Ashley being the most competitive and Tom Scudder, taking it the hardest. With minor sunburns and plenty of exercise we boarded the vessel and sailed away from this paradise towards Norman Island. It was hard to believe that something could top Sandy Cay, but the caves at Norman Island were very exciting and the kids had a blast snorkeling in and out. We watched a beautiful sunset from a very rocky shore before “showering” under the hose and preparing for dinner. Dinner was delicious as usual and fatigue set in fast. Quiet ship with no argument from anyone at 2100.
Day 4 Tuesday March 4
We woke up early today and a little slower than other mornings. No morning calisthenics or dip. Several students chose to go to the beach for one more dip from there. After cleaning up camp and a light breakfast, we boarded the Tabor Boy and prepared to set sail. The students are really starting to become familiar with the lines and sails and are more able to participate (hesitate to say help) with the raising of sails and readying the boat. The great things about this group of kids are that they all have a positive attitude and genuinely want to learn and participate. The sail from Cinnamon Bay over to Leinster Bay was excellent. With breeze on, small chop and sunshine, we were able to enjoy the view of Jost Van Dyke, Soper’s Hole and the BVI’s as we made our way to the research site. We anchored and enjoyed lunch on board before the students set out to collect their data at Annaberg Point. It is a chilly afternoon with overcast skies and a strong breeze. Despite the chatter and minimal complaints, students did a great job and were proud of their results. After a second, more comfortable dive, students had more successful research experience. Once dry and re-dressed we headed into shore, Annasberg, St. John, we hiked/walked a short distance to the old sugar mill. The landmark has several elaborate stone structures still standing and a long documented history behind the sugar/money making property. After a nice walk along the beach we were shuttled back to our on the water home, we had a fantastic Italian dinner and with full bellies tried to stay awake watching a slide show of all the pictures taken throughout the day. It wasn’t easy keeping eyes open until nine! The vessel was very quiet by five after nine.
Day 3 Monday March 3
“Would you rather…?”
What can I say? No complaints here. Another gorgeous day on the Tabor Boy! We had a great morning re-learning the PDA’s and practicing in our groups. We dove off the boat at St. Francis Bay to practice our skills. Students were able to successfully document the Elkhorn colonies with photos and notes on the PDA’s. Everyone participated in such a positive way that we were able to move right along. A second “practice” dive seemed unnecessary given the initial results. After the dive and recap to view the photos, we motored over to Cinnamon Bay where we disembarked for an overnight camping adventure. With the freedom to play on the beach, no iPods, cell phones, computers or IM, the students were imaginative and playful and really had a blast. The way kids should. It was refreshing to have a fresh water shower, albeit cold, after an afternoon at the beach. Lex and his brother, Trevor (class ’06), showed the rest of us how real wrestling is done. And, after dinner, we perfected the construction of “s’mores”, sat around campsite talking, storytelling and playing games ‘til bed. The stars were magnificent and the sound of the ocean was spectacular. A fantastic time was had by all.
Day 2 Sunday March 2
“Is that all the steak we have? ‘Cuz, I could eat that whole thing!” Hide Sakamoto (class ’08) admiring the grill with 16 lbs. of sirloin steak cooking.
Everyone was up and at ‘em at 7 AM…not too shabby when your used to getting up before first light. The kids are great. Positive and happy to be here they are working together and singing during cleanup. After lectures about sun block and reminders about safety, the vessel is underway and we have a great breeze and sail over to St. Francis Bay. We have two novices on-board, one who has never been on a boat. The 2nd mate, Rob Aspinwall (class ’02), and Trevor Browning (class ’06), were terrific guiding and teaching the basics to the complex and by the end of the sail the students fit right in helping with lines, sail trim and anchoring the vessel. Geared up and ready we all spent over two hours in the azure blue waters snorkeling and seeing all kinds of sea urchins, corals and marine life. It was impressive to hear all of the students spouting their knowledge and so excited to be here. With plenty of exercise and not too much sun the steak dinner was a welcome comfort. With great anticipation for tomorrow’s tasks at hand, it was early to bed, (with absolutely no complaints) making it a very quiet ship at 2100. A great start to quite the adventure.
Day 1 Saturday March 1
“What is a hull?” Ashley Brooks, Class ‘10 (when asked to look for the black hull of the Tabor Boy in Red Hook Harbor)
Despite snowy, wet weather and many thanks so Ms. McSweeny and Mr. Ciraolo, we arrived at Logan Airport with ample time to get checked-in, go through security and find a Dunkin’ Donuts. Our flight was delayed a mere 20 minutes for de-icing and off we went. We met friends of Tabor, Mr. and Mrs. Grover (parents to Elliott and Wes), who were also headed to St. Thomas/ St. John on the plane. We will see them again in two days when we camp at Cinnamon Bay. We arrived to find beautiful sunshine, 84 degree temperatures, a beautiful breeze and Casey, the Chief Mate, waiting for us in St. Thomas. The students were “thrilled” by steep, fast, beautiful ride from the airport to Red Hook Harbor where we could see our proud vessel anchored and waiting for us. Max, (class ’06) deckhand, met us and lugged mounds of luggage, dive gear and, eventually, people to the boat. The students (me too) could barely contain their excitement to be here and finally heading to the boat.
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Caribbean Studies Program Director’s Log- February 19 - 28, 2008
Cruise 5: Dr. Elizabeth Soule
Day 8 Tuesday Feb. 26
“So you wanna be a sailor, do ya?” - Rick (crew)
We began the morning a bit different today. Rather than the usual routine of calisthenics and a morning dip, we got underway almost immediately so we could get to Cruz Bay by noon. It was a very slow sail and it took us about 5 hours to get there. During the sail, we ate breakfast and tended to other odd jobs around the schooner. Anchoring just around the corner from Cruz Bay, we took turns getting shuttled ashore. Going through customs was a breeze and we were all finished within five minutes. This allowed us about two hours to shop and eat lunch in Cruz Bay. Everyone returned to the vessel with new goodies and Potter was able to satisfy his ice cream fix…at least until Thursday. Around 3pm, we motored over to Hawk’s Nest Bay where we would spend the evening. After tying up the sails for the night, the kids were able to have free swim. They took turns diving from the rigging, each trying to go a bit higher than the last. After they were tired of jumping in the water, Colin and Bizzy attempted to dive 60ft below the water and picked up a handful of sand to prove it. At 6:30, we had a pasta dinner. A few days earlier, Casey and Rick caught about a half dozen conchs. So tonight, Frank cooked up conch in red sauce and made meatballs, for those of us who chose not to have conch. From what I heard the conch was delicious! Casey briefed the students on tomorrow’s activities. Tomorrow is the official research day and we are planning four dives. At this point the location will depend on the weather.
Day 7 Monday Feb. 25
“A shower has never felt better.” – Maddie Chapin
We began the morning with some exercises and a dip, while the schooner was still anchored off Salt Island. After breakfast, we prepared for the sail to Virgin Gorda. Since it was not too windy, we were able to snorkel around the Baths before going onto land to walk around within the giant boulders. We spent a few hours exploring and everyone seem to enjoy this particular island. Around 1pm, we returned to the schooner for lunch. Everyone was famished and was excited to have macaroni and cheese and chili. On the sail over to Marina Cay, we decided to stop for a quick snorkel at Great Dog Island. In this spot, there is an underwater tunnel called the Cathedral that Bizzy, Colin, Potter, Jack and Ben were all brave enough to try swimming through. Before heading ashore to Marina Cay for dinner at Pussers, the students experienced their first “prison” shower, where they were allowed to use soap and shampoo but were hosed down by the crew to save water and time. The students were very excited to be able to go out to dinner. Feeling clean for the first time in awhile, the students put on the nicest outfits that they brought with them. Once on shore, they all piled into the Pussers Co. Store to buy some souvenirs. At dinner, many ordered fruity drinks such as virgin Pina Coladas and Strawberry Daiquiris. Everyone, including the crew, was disappointed to learn they only had cheesecake and key lime pie for dessert, and no ice cream! We returned from dinner around 10pm so everyone was eager to get to bed.
Day 6 Sunday Feb. 24
What do you call a fish without an i? A fshhhhhhhhhhhhhh – Mary Mackey
Still anchored in Norman Island, we awoke at 7am sharp performed our morning routine and then enjoyed a breakfast of waffles. Yum! After breakfast, we motored over to Benures Bay for a snorkel. This area had not yet been snorkeled by Tabor students so all were eager to explore. Along with the usual parrotfish and tangs, the snorkelers also spotted a trunkfish and a peacock flounder. The students also practiced diving and clearing, which would be essential for the afternoon dive. Bizzy Maloney impressed the crew by diving to 35 ft with ease. Around 11am, we began the two-hour sail to Salt Island. It was a bit bumpy since we sailed out into the open ocean so about half of the students felt seasick at some point during the trip. Upon arrival, we ate lunch and then Cap gave us a talk about the Rhone, a shipwreck off the coast of Salt Island. The students were excited to snorkel their first shipwreck. Once in the water, the students took turns touching the “lucky” porthole about 40 ft down. After we were through snorkeling we watched as Max and Colin dove down 60 ft in the spot where the schooner was anchored. What an unbelievable feat! Once out of the water, we decided to go visit Henry, the caretaker of Salt Island. Unfortunately, Henry was nowhere to be found. But since he has been so generous in allowing us to visit his private island, we decided to do a beach cleanup and picked up all of the trash. We also looked at the salt ponds and the graves of Henry’s family. We returned to the schooner for dinner of meatloaf, mashed potatoes and green beans. After dinner, we celebrated Tim Fallon’s 18th birthday with cake. Before bed, the students reflected on the last few days in their journals.
Day 5 Saturday Feb. 23
We saw a bunch of huge barracudas and Potter found a mask & snorkel so it was a win-win situation. – Carson Drake
This morning, we were up at 7am and carried out the usual routine of jumping jacks, push ups, situps and a quick swim. We ate a fast breakfast so that we could get underway to the British Virgin Islands. While the crew went ashore, the students cleaned the entire schooner – inside and out. One student was overheard saying that they had never cleaned so hard in their lives. After clearing customs, we prepared the boat for the short sail to Sandy Cay. Sandy Cay was the ideal Caribbean Island – picturesque and uninhabited complete with white sands, aqua colored waters and palm trees. The crew dropped us off there for an hour to relax. Some of us played in the water while others played football or sunbathed. No one was ready to leave but it was time for lunch back on the schooner. After lunch, we prepped the boat for the sail to Norman Island. It didn’t seem like it was that far away but it took us over two hours to get there. But it certainly was worth the trip to see the caves. We had to snorkel with flashlights but we were able to see tons of barracuda, sea stars, brittle stars and urchins. Upon returning from the caves, we had to get ready for our dinner guests, a fellow Tabor alum and his wife. We dined on a delicious meal of chicken and broccoli pasta. We even had pie for dessert!
Day 4 Friday Feb. 22
I’m not going to let a little rain dampen my spirits. – Jack Allen
On Friday morning, the Tabor students got to sleep in a bit since we spent the night in Cinnamon Bay campground and did not have to do the usual morning routine. With a little bit of free time before our scheduled pick up, the group cleaned up the campsite and headed to the beach. Around 9am, Rick picked us up in the avon and brought us back to the schooner. Once we were all back on board, we prepared to motor over to our chosen research spot of the day: Brown Bay. However, once we had reached our destination, we realized that it was too choppy to snorkel there. We regrouped and decided on Leinster Point for our first dive of the day. Around Leinster Point, the students spotted a lemon shark, an octopus, a few turtles, and squid, along with a fair amount of elkhorn coral. For the second dive, the research groups collected data on their own, without the assistance of a crew member. We dropped them off in Waterlemon Key and explained the limits of the research area. They were very successful and brought back great data – both on the PDAs and on the camera. The students found a number of extra large healthy elkhorn colonies. Because it takes so long for this type of coral to grow, this is great news for the National Park Service and the students are eager to know whether previous data exists from this area. Before dinner, we decided on a trip to the Sugar Mill followed by a nice walk along the beach. After a dinner of barbequed chicken, rice and corn, everyone aboard was exhausted and lights were out by 9pm.
Day 3 Thursday Feb. 21
“I found lots of new friends – like Carson and a baby sea turtle” – Potter Hodgson
This morning the students woke up, carried out the morning routine and were in good spirits, despite a few minor sunburns. Casey gave them a lesson on how to use the cameras and PDAs. The students were ready to begin their first “mock” research dives with their research groups, the cameras and the PDAs. Potter seems to have an eye for spotting marine life as he was the first to spot a barracuda and a nurse shark. By the second dive, the students felt confident in their coral data collecting skills. After lunch, we motored over to Cinnamon Bay and the students prepared to spend the night in the campground on St. John. Once we got dropped off on the beach, we spent the afternoon swimming, playing football and frisbee. At our campsite, we barbecued hamburgers and hotdogs and then toasted marshmallows. Everyone was very excited to be able to take a shower and no one seemed to mind that the water was cold. With the anticipation of a research day tomorrow, the students were eager to get to bed early.
Day 2 Wednesday Feb. 20
“Seeing the pristine blue water for the first time in the afternoon sunlight, put into perspective what paradise really is” – Colin Bono
7am came very quickly for the Tabor students! The students were introduced to the morning routine – jumping jacks, sit ups and pushups following by our first swim in the Caribbean. After breakfast, we prepared for the hour long sail to Francis Bay. After lunch, the students gathered around listen to Cap explain the art of snorkeling. By this point, everyone was anxious to get into the water. Groups were assigned to a crew member and they ventured into the water to explore. When the groups returned, they had a quick snack and then headed back into the water for the second snorkeling session of the day. The students were very excited at all of the marine life they had seen including a sea turtle, many parrot fish and sergeant majors, tarpon, a moray eel and a Mahi mahi. The students were also able to successfully identify elkhorn coral. The crew cooked us a delicious steak dinner and the students were ready to go to bed by 9pm.
Day 1 Tuesday Feb. 19
“I’m so excited. I’m so excited. I’m so excited!” – Jamie Seidel
The group for Cruise 5 left Tabor promptly at 8:15 on Tuesday morning. Though we got stuck in a bit of traffic on the way to Logan, we passed through security with plenty of time to get a snack before boarding our flight to Miami. Once in Miami, we had a short layover before the second half of our flight to St. Thomas. At the St. Thomas airport, we were greeted by a Tabor Boy crew member who helped us collect our bags so we could head over to the boat. We finally got aboard around 10:00pm. The students had a quick dinner of lasagna and salad and had a few minutes to get settled into their bunks before lights out.
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Caribbean Studies Program Director’s Log- February 7 - 16, 2008
Cruise 4: Mr. Michael Bentz
Day 10 Saturday Feb. 16
We are scheduled to do our last morning exercises and a final dip in the warm waters of the Caribbean Sea. Then we will set sail for St. Thomas, and take the cab service back to the airport. We will have to clear customs again, and check in for our flight. If everything is on schedule, we’ll arrive back in Boston at approximately 7:30 pm, and back at Tabor around 9:00. Hopefully these students will look back on this trip as I do. It has been a whole lot of work, but, even more so, it has been rewarding. Not only because we have hopefully gathered some useful data, but because as a group we have developed life skills and participated in an experience that very few others in the world are fortunate enough to be able to do. I had an amazing time that I will always remember; this was a truly unique opportunity that I will not take for granted. My final thoughts: Wherever the prevailing winds take her, the SSV Tabor Boy is a special place.
Day 9 Friday, Feb.15
We set sail for St. John early and the wind was constant at 25-30 knots. The seas now swelled 6-10 ft, and the vessel made incredible time. We received an e-mail forwarded from the U.S. Department of the Interior asking us to do some research at a horseshoe cove called Caneel Bay. This area was not originally on our schedule, but we had great success earlier at Mary Point, so we decided to check the visibility at this location. We arrived at Caneel Bay by 11:30 am, and we were ready to go. The area was well protected from the wind and waves, and it seemed like there were numerous reef formations to document. Unfortunately, the Interior Department and the Park Service did not communicate about the plan. We were told that we were not allowed to anchor in the bay. We showed the park rangers our letter giving us permission to anchor and do research, but they insisted that the area we were in was not acceptable. We probably could have anchored farther out to sea, but because of safety and logistics issue of having the vessel so far from the students in the water, Cap decided to have us just finish our research at Francis Bay. We set sail again, and upon arrival, the students went to work. They did a great job over the next two hours and collected many more corals. Most importantly, we finished the sections that we had previously started and connected our sectors to the area that prior groups had completed.
Day 8 Thursday, Feb 14
Today was Valentine's Day :-)
Our original plan was to go into town today in Cruz Bay, St. John; however, because the conditions made it almost impossible to get any viable Elkhorn data anyway, and the strong winds provided a unique window of opportunity to sail a longer transect, we decided to sail to St Croix. Cap had disclosed that we were low on diesel fuel, but it was difficult to tell how low. Cap, the officers, and I had discussed this issue yesterday and weighed the options. At sunrise, the wind was still very strong, so we passed out more Dramamine and by 08:00 we were on our way. Our trip was exciting with strong wind, once again, and seas now 6-8 ft. Even though conditions were rough, we had very few issues with seasickness. We took some more fluorometer readings, and also saw a pod of dolphins that enjoyed playing in our wake. I was able to experience another personal highlight of the trip as Cap and the crew allowed me to take one of the rotational shifts at the helm. The students are working hard between their chores, shift watches, hauling lines, and collecting data. Most of them were too busy to notice or care that today was Valentine’s Day, but many of them did all make ballentines. (A special way to coil or “fake” the ends of halyards to allow them to feed out without binding up when we strike the sails.) I thought the holiday was worthy of a corny statement, or perhaps the time that we’ve been at sea has taken its effect on my sanity, and what I think is amusing. With the Tabor Boy on a full-tilt reach, we made great time arriving at St. Croix anchorage at 13:00. It was early enough for the students to get their time on shore in town to shop and have a bit of lunch. We cleared U.S. customs, and began refueling the diesel. St. Croix also has a Danish fort; Christinavaard, constructed in 1789, and Frank, the cook, gave us a brief lesson about its history. Back on the vessel, Cap and Casey informed us that we were lucky to have made the call to refuel. We took on over 1100 gallons of diesel, which meant that the tank was almost dry. Beyond the usefulness to have the option to motor the vessel, the on board generator makes all of the water and electricity that the students use. Tomorrow we will sail back to St. John early and conduct some more Elkhorn research.
Day 7 Wednesday, Feb 13
There was a strong breeze as we left Salt Island. The wind was blowing 25-30 knots, but the shelter of the islands kept the wave swells from getting too large. We didn’t have any difficulty with seasickness during this trip, and we were able to collect more fluorometer data. While underway, we saw flying fish. They are quite fast and truly do fly as they leap out of the water and flap their pectoral fins, sometimes even making it 10 yards before returning to the water. I’m not sure if this adaptation is supposed to help them escape larger fish that are predators, but sometimes this amazing ability is actually the cause of their demise. We saw a booby swoop down and catch a fish in mid-flight. We arrived at Virgin Gorda and disembarked to explore “the baths.” These granite rock formations were created from the erosion of the sea through hundreds of thousands of years of pounding waves. The result is a labyrinth of giant boulders and watery crevices that are amazing to explore. Our final sail of the day brought us to Marina Cay, where we attempted to do some more PDA research, but the wind, waves, and current made it very difficult. The students were getting tossed around and the visibility was quite low, even on the most sheltered side of the island. We all went ashore to Pusser’s restaurant and had a fine meal.
Day 6 Tuesday, Feb 12
Today we left Norman Island and headed southeast to an area where the undersea shelf drops off to a depth greater than 2000 feet. This was a longer sail, and an opportunity to collect some more fluorometer data, but it was also a prime location to drop a few XBTs (Expendable Bathy-Thermograms), a donation from the Lockheed Martin Corporation that measures the changing temperature as the probe drops deeper and deeper into the abyss. Our sail today was quite exciting with wind blowing about 25 knots and the seas swelling 4-6 feet. We essentially performed one giant tack, and turned north on a close-haul up-wind, back to our destination, Salt Island. Unfortunately, because of the rough conditions, a few of the students experienced bouts of seasickness. The quotation of the day from Peter Hurd: “I used to always think that I wanted to be a pirate... now, not so much. Once we anchored in the calmer water off the coast of Salt Island, everyone felt much better. The island gets its name from the fact that it is rich in the mineral, salt, and ships would drop sailors off on the island to collect as much salt as they could for the voyages ahead. Casey informed us that this is the origin of the expression, “That sailor is worth his salt.” Salt Island is also the location of a shipwreck, The Rhone. Cap gave us all a fascinating history lesson on how this vessel came to rest here in 1867. It seem that this 300 foot long combination steam-sail powered vessel tried to escape the rocky islands and head out to sea during the eye of a storm, and didn’t make it. Because of the way much of the ship is situated, it has shallow areas great for snorkeling, and also some parts 80 ft down appropriate for SCUBA diving. I had the best dive of my life! It was my first time actually being able to enter an enclosed section of the hull, and the visibility was great, even at that depth. The students took turns diving down to touch the rudder at 15 ft. and the propeller at 20 ft. deep. One tradition is for snorkelers to dive down and touch a porthole that is 30 feet down. Since so many visitors have done it, it’s still shiny and Mike, Sara, and Liza were able to meet the challenge. After diving, we hiked and explored Salt Island. By the time dinner and the following cleanup were finished, everyone was exhausted from another packed day. We gathered in the deckhouse to look at the photos taken so far this trip, and headed off to bed.
Day 5 Monday Feb 11
We awoke this morning in Leinster Bay, St. John, USVI with a beautiful sunrise that lit up the old Annaberg windmill. After calisthenics and morning dip, we motored the short distance over to the BVI and anchored in Sopers Hole, Tortola. We cleared customs in record time, and by 8:30 am we were headed to Jolly Rodger Restaurant and Inn for breakfast. After feasting, we set out for a short sail to Sandy Cay. (Key down here is Cay) The cay is appropriately named, with white sand that almost circumnavigates the entirety of the small island. This stop was purely recreational, and the students took full advantage of the down time. Some decided to just lie down and soak in some rays (with copious amounts of sunblock, of course.) Malcom and I went exploring up a trail into the woods, and found a coconut tree. After a few attempts, he was able to jar one loose with a rock. We brought it back to the beach, broke it open and shared fresh coconut with everyone. Back on the beach, we had a great football game. Upon our return to the vessel, we prepared to sail to Norman Island. I set up the fluorometer, and taught the group leaders a bit about the data collection that they would be helping me with. The wind was strong and the seas were rough, so the students all donned PFD’s, and worked hard making the sheets and lines All-A-Taut-O as we tacked up wind. Some of the group leaders were on watch, so for this first major transect, I collected most of the fluorometer data. We anchored at Norman Island and furled the sails. After we coiled the lines, we prepared for a recreational snorkel with flashlights into caves. The students had a great time exploring the reef and caverns, and they took some photos. Jack found an underwater tunnel that we could barely fit through, and it was exhilarating to pop out the other side. This dive was quite remarkable with sightings of even more species including a triggerfish and a moray eel. In the evening Trevor gave a great synopsis about the importance and purpose of collecting fluorometry data so the students would not be uninformed about the numbers they were writing on the data sheets. Tomorrow we will be sailing a longer voyage to Salt Island, and we will be able to collect a larger amount of data. Today was a great day for the group’s bonding and enjoying each other’s company. I couldn’t be happier with how they are doing, and I look forward to the rest of the trip with them.
Day 4 Sunday Feb 10
When we awoke at camp on Cinnamon Bay, some of the students wanted to maintain the morning routine and go for an early dip. They went down to the beach and charged into the crystal clear, blue-green water. An awesome way to start your day! The water was still calm, so the crew in the Zodiac was able to pick us up without getting our gear wet. Back on the Tabor Boy, our scheduled plan was to allow the students practice time to use the PDA’s and cameras in their research groups. Because the students have never done research like this before, typically this first equipment-intensive dive did not generate any useful data. However, Cap Geil and the crew thought that the conditions and the visibility at Mary Point was an opportunity to collect data there that we couldn’t pass up. Cap addressed the students, and told them that they were going to be asked to collect viable data in an organized grid. The students told him that they were up to the task, and the working vessel went into full research mode. Casey went over the PDA’s, and we divided the point into sections. Each group had a crewmember or myself accompany them on the dive, just to make sure that the details they were seeing on the coral were the same as what we saw. We also had them take numerous pictures of each Elkhorn coral, so that scientists that use the data can match and double-check our responses. After our first dive, we reviewed some of the questions that the groups had run into. We had a quick break for lunch, and then we suited up again to do more research. I was proud of the students for taking this research so seriously, and they were doing an excellent job. By the end of the second dive, we had documented over 100 corals with GPS locations and pictures. After a long day of working in the water, we still wanted to hike up Annaberg and see the sugar mill. The history of the sugar cane trade and products was quite interesting, and the ruins made us realize how far back this industry went. From the top of the hill, there was a beautiful view of the Tabor Boy, and as Peter Hurd said, “After all that swimming it was nice to be back on land for a bit.”
Day 3 Saturday, Feb. 9
We spent last night anchored in Francis Bay. One of the reasons the islands here are so lush and tropical is that it rains quite often. At 3:00 am I was suddenly awakened by the sound of the pounding rain and realized that I needed to remove the wind-catcher. The ingenious device channels fresh air from the breeze on deck down to the sleeping quarters, but this time it was sending us a whole lot of rainwater. Our first dive was some more hands free exploration of Francis Bay. By our second dive, we had the students broken into their research groups and they were using the underwater digital cameras. We had an amazing dive out past Mary Point on the north side of Francis Bay. Because the wind was out of the east, and there was virtually no ground swell, Casey informed us that we were seeing this area with unparalleled clarity. There were large underwater rock formations and canyons that the students could explore. I was very impressed with how comfortable the students were becoming with holding their breath and diving deep. On this dive we played with sea-turtles, swam with a school of Tarpon, and found a huge lobster under a boulder about 20 feet down.We went over to camp at Cinnamon Bay, and the east by southeast wind direction made the water landing easy. At the camp, we played on the beach and tossed the football around. At night we searched for constellations, shooting stars, and even spotted a couple of satellites.
Day 2 Friday, Feb. 8
The morning routine on the vessel consists of a wake up call followed promptly by calisthenics and a morning dip. With some of the students groggy from the inexperience of sleeping in close quarters, as they came up on deck, some of them seemed to be dreading the impending regiment. However, 15 jumping jacks into the workout, everyone’s spirit’s lifted and they all realized that this is a fantastic way to start the day. These students were also reminded that this is a working vessel and we were there to be helpful crewmembers and, in a couple of days, scientific researchers. That message was made clear by the duty schedule of meal preparation for Port and Starbord watches, hauling lines to get the vessel under sail, and Mike Hennessey took the first shift of the dirty job of stacking anchor chain. The wind was strong and the seas had about 4 foot rollers rocking the ship. As a result, some of the students were not feeling up to the scheduled chili lunch, so we had sandwiches while under-way. We saw a pair of dolphins who enjoyed playing in the bow wake of the vessel. By the time we reached Francis Bay on St. Johns, everyone felt much better. We broke into temporary snorkel groups and went exploring. Groups saw a great variety of corrals and we reminded them that it was important to be able to distinguish Elkhorn from the others. Groups also saw a gamut of marine life including a sea turtle, lemon shark, porcupine puffer fish, honeycomb cow-fish and a Sea Cucumber. Dinner was a delicious spread of steak, carrots, and rice. After a preview Powerpoint presentation by Trevor about the research we will be doing, the students retired to writing in their journals and stargazing.
Day 1 Thursday, Feb. 7
This morning we left Tabor promptly at 7:15 am. The weather was a rainy snowy mix and, as a result, traffic was heavy. However, after arriving at the airport, the rest of our travel ran like clockwork. We had a direct flight to St. Thomas, our bags were quickly in hand, and I was pleased to see Rob Aspinwall ‘02 waiting for us with taxies ready to go. We took an adventurous shortcut on winding, narrow, and very steep roads over the peak of the island because the cruise ships in port created too much traffic for our driver’s liking. The view from the top was breathtaking, and it gave us a moment to reflect on the fact that we were a long way from home. Arriving on the vessel, the officers and crew were in good spirits, and it was nice for me, personally, to reconnect with three of my former students (Rob, Trevor Browning ‘06, and Max Martucelli ‘06.) The students organized their bunks, and with a misty rain combined with sunshine, we truly knew that we were in paradise as a rainbow appeared arcing over an ocean and island backdrop.
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Caribbean Studies Program Director’s Log- January 27 - February 5, 2008
Cruise 3: Mr. Rick DaSilva
Day 9 Monday, Feb. 4 (Francis Bay/ Whistling Cay)
“I can't believe they lost. Oh well, wait until next year! Now…let’s go get that coral!!!”
– Taylor McQuade ‘10
The morning came early, what with our late night and all. And although most of us were disappointed in last nights’ outcome, we still had high spirits about the day, and research, that was before us. After breakfast and the second to last sets of calisthenics, the students readied themselves for a full day in the water. Capt. Geil, first mate Casey Charkowick and I (Mr. DaSilva) took one of the launches over around a nearby island (Whistling Cay) to check the wind conditions and to get an idea of the coral population. After a few short chilly dives we returned with two pieces of good news. One, that the conditions were perfect to snorkel an the island, especially in an area that we’ve never visited, and two, that we found areas of sand that the schooner could indeed anchor. This made the students happy that they were going to be the first, and perhaps the only ones, to snorkel the northern face of Whistling Cay and also that the Tabor Boy would only be feet away and able to give support from the deck and from the nearby launches. When we started this trip days ago it was clear that our goal was to practice and learn proper techniques for gathering data on the Elkhorn coral, using PDA’s, digital underwater cameras and what we’d learned as snorkel divers. Today was the day when all of that was to come together and make it worth it. Today, the students did that! Not only did they dive a new area but they dove it VERY WELL! Each group went into the water four times for at least an hour each time and the groups together identified over four hundred Elkhorn. This was no easy task. Capt. Geil and the crew congratulated the students on a job well done. I, like them, am also very proud of the job they did today and how hard they’ve worked in preparing for this research day. After getting cleaned up after the dives “Cap” surprised us all with an evening sail. It was a great way to end a long but rewarding day. We dropped anchor in Hawk’s Nest Bay, near Ram Goat Island (a site we visited three years ago) and settled in for dinner and our last night aboard. We’ll sleep well tonight and even though we’ll be home soon our minds tonight will be on the friends we made during our time here and the experiences all shared. All was indeed TAUT-O the past nine days.
Day 8 Sunday, Feb. 3 (Sail to Cruz Bay St. John/ Francis Bay)
“I’m really starting to get this whole sailing thing! This is great!”
– John Storella-Mullin ‘08
Our morning started with an announcement, we would indeed be taking a return course north and around Tortola on our way back to St. John. We were all excited about the news but knew right away that it meant a few things; one, that we’d be having breakfast underway and two, that we would need to make two or three quick tacks to get out of Marina Cay and get on course to go a way that no group this year has yet taken. As hungry as everyone was, all hands were on deck to prepare the sails and take on the challenge that was set before us. The three tacks were indeed challenging and Capt. Geil had kudos for the crew and their ability to get the vessel underway. The sail was long and gusty but we all enjoyed every second of it. There were a few rainsqualls but it was fun taking pictures of the rainbows that the sunshine and the unwanted rain produced. About halfway through the sail the wind died down but our hopes remained high knowing that we’d soon be passing through U.S. Customs and eating lunch at Cruz Bay. Clearing customs was uneventful and lunch (most kids ate at Subway) was enjoyable. After returning to the vessel, we readied sails for a quick sail back to one of our original spots Francis Bay, the site of tomorrow’s “super bowl” of our dives. The sail from Cruz Bay to Francis Bay was very windy and made for an exciting sail. We hit just under 10 knots and “buried the rails” in about a foot of water. We arrived and struck sails at about 4:30pm and after a few compliments of the students from the crew, were treated to some free time to swim. The students and crew took turns jumping from a few diving points approved by “Cap”, practicing different dives and flips. Some of the students even climbed up into the bow rigging and dove from the bowsprit. It was a very nice and relaxing way to end the afternoon. It’s remarkable having spent the week seeing how much the students have taken a shine to working together as a crew aboard the vessel. Each one of them has learned new skills, tried new things and opened off enough (those that needed to) to truly take advantage of this incredible experience. Soon they’ll all be home and sharing their many stories with friends and family. After dinner tonight we’ll all huddle around either a laptop or a satellite radio and listen to as much of the Super Bowl as we can without intruding too much on the sleep we’re going to need for tomorrow’s research dive. We’re all hoping that we can catch as much of the game as possible. Either way, I’m sure that once the game ends there will be a myriad of calls and texts sent to those on board, especially now that we’re back in U.S. cell range! Go Team! Whoever you may be cheering for! See you all soon.
Day 7 Saturday, Feb. 2 (Virgin Gorda/ Marina Cay)
“The boulders are huge! I climbed all the way to that big one.”
– James Downer ‘10
Saturday, day 7, has been the busiest of our days in the Caribbean. After the usual morning business, we set sail for Virgin Gorda and the baths. The wind was steady and blowing over 20 knots, pushing us back into the channel between the islands. After two tacks our course was set for Virgin Gorda dead ahead. It was a great day to sail and the sun shined almost the entire time. As we often joke about how it’s impossible to take a bad picture down here, today was no exception. We took a lot of great pictures on the 2 hour 15 minute sail. Upon reaching Virgin Gorda, the students all joked about what the baths would be like. It wasn’t until they saw the giant rock formations from off shore that they truly got an idea of the size and span of this most amazing site. We were brought over by the launch and plunged into the water 100 yards from the beach. The swim was exhilarating, especially because we weren’t in our wetsuits and literally climbed onto a beach filled with tanning vacationers. Once we were all ashore a few of the crewmembers led the way through the Devil’s Bay beach trail. We all followed them through shallow pools, underwater swim ways, narrow paths and sandy pockets. It was quite the adventure. After returning to the beach and indulging in a few sodas and peanut M&M’s, we examined our bodies and found that most of us survived the experience with minor scratches, all part of the fun. Once back onboard we set sail again and sailed for Marina Cay, an afternoon snorkel and Pusser’s restaurant. The snorkel went pretty well and was to be our last before we return to Francis Bay. We jokingly called this dive our “playoff” game, with Monday’s research being the “Super Bowl”. Sadly we did not have our best outing today and ran in to a few technology challenges. All in all it was another valuable research experience. The preparation for our dinner at Marina Cay was quite funny. The students finally had the chance to use soap and shampoo. Each of them lathered up and then got sprayed down, a refreshing shower to say the least. Once clean, we all dressed up (as best we could) and made our way over to the small island. We all walked though the gift shop and then made out way up to visit the house we read about in Our Virgin Island. Dinner was GREAT! We all ate well and had a great time in the restaurant, by far the biggest group they had all night. Once back on the vessel we “flushed and brushed” and hit the bunks pretty early. Tomorrow we find out whether or not our return sail to St. John will be through the channel or north of Tortola. We’re also very excited about being back in the USVI’s and within satellite radio range to hear the game tomorrow night. See you all soon!
Day 6 Friday, Feb. 1 (Half day sail/ Salt Island)
“It was great! We saw a barracuda, a turtle, reef squid and a shark!”
– Ashley Worrell ’10. Lauren Horton ‘10
If you haven’t been on the Tabor Boy under sail, put it on a list of things to do. It is truly an amazing experience! Today, after the normal morning routine and breakfast, we hauled up the anchor and got underway; destination Salt Island. Capt. Geil had mentioned last night that the weather and wind were due to cooperate for a sail that would take us south of Norman Island and over to the “drop off”, a shelf where the water depth changes from 100 to over 2500 feet. We sailed just about 7 miles off the southern coast of Norman Island and dropped two “Deep Blue” expendable bathythermographs. These devices get launched from the deck and measure the temperature and depth as it descends. The data collected then gets transmitted back to a laptop. The sail itself was surreal. The skies were a picturesque blue and spotted with white fluffy clouds. The water was a darker shade of blue but twinkled with the light of the Caribbean sun. The Tabor Boy sailed at a steady 6 knots and the students and crew enjoyed tending the lines, sitting in the front rigging and just absorbing the fine day. Our four hour sail, for the students, was one of the most amazing experiences so far this week. After reaching Salt Island, Capt. Geil discussed the history of the Rhone, a steam freighter that wrecked off the west coast of the island after a hurricane in the late 1800’s. The ship still sits underwater at the site it was destroyed and it now is one of the most popular wrecks to dive in the area. The students thoroughly enjoyed the snorkel and explored the area around it, seeing turtles, barracudas, squid, a nurse shark, various scuba divers, and many multicolored fish. It was by far the best snorkel we’ve had so far. Once back on board, we all changed to prepare for a short hike on Salt Island. It was great hearing about the history of the island from Henry, the sole resident of the island. The evening ended with an incredible sunset and an even better dinner. Before bed we watched a slide show highlighting our afternoon dive and then added another entry to our journal. Tomorrow we have a busy day sailing to Virgin Gorda and the baths, and then on to Marina Cay and Pusser’s Restaurant. We can’t wait. Oh, and GO PATS! (and Giants too I guess for you NY fans).
Day 5 Thursday, Jan. 31(Soper’s Hole/ The Caves)
“Where’d you guys go? I’ve been chasing a huge parrot fish for the past 5 minutes!”
– Abigail Gray ‘10
Our fifth day has been much like the others so far, fun-filled and beautiful. We awoke to a dark layer of clouds and a white-capped bay. Our morning routine went well and ended with another brisk (82 degree) dip into the water. Once we finished breakfast we motored over to Soper’s Hole on Tortola to clear customs and start our journey into the British Virgin Islands. While a few of the crew went onshore with our passports and paperwork, the students and remaining crew prepared to get underway, or for all you land-lubbers back home, ready to sail. We also took a few minutes to set up the fluorometer. Upon their return, Capt. Geil gave the orders to weigh anchor and we began our sail over to Norman Island and the caves. The sail itself was amazing, with a strong, steady breeze and perfect conditions. The students are all getting better as deck hands and their willingness to pitch-in, pull lines, raise sails, stack chain and coil rope increases each day. And you should see them do it all in reverse once we reach our destination! We reached Norman Island in 50 minutes, an impressive pace. After lunch we all got dressed in out wetsuits and brandished the digital cameras, excited to take some shots of the abundance of marine life of which the caves are famous. We explored each of the four caves and even used flashlights for the couple that were too dark. The students saw a number of fish and coral; their pictures are impressive and will be shared with you soon! After the caves we swam over to a rocky beach and spent some time looking for coral pieces, rocks, sea glass and other keepsakes. Needless to say, the swim back to the launch was a little tougher with rocks and such stuffed in our suits. The rest of the afternoon was spent enjoying some down time; snacking on assorted goodies and watching other boots anchor nearby. We even held “Gumby suit” (survival/immersion gear) races! All was fun on the schooner today! Tonight our plan is to have (another) great dinner and watch a slideshow of the pictures we’ve taken over the past three days. Before bed the students will make another thoughtful entry in their journals, look up at the starry sky and think of those back home and then hit the racks. Tomorrow we head to Salt Island and dive the wreck of the Rhone.
Day 4 Wednesday, Jan. 30 (Cinnamon Bay & Leinster Bay)
“Thanks Charles.” – Craig Skelly ‘08
Day Four arrived and instead of the sounds of the sea waking us, a large owl surprisingly alerted us that it was indeed morning. A foul beast that seemed to make its call from 4am until 8:30am, roughly the time we swam off the beach and back to the Tabor Boy. Other than the owl, the night seemed to go well. Once fully awake, we brushed our teeth, packed our gear and ate Pop-tarts that were warmed on the grille. The sun was up and slowly warming the (most fantastic and beautiful) beach. We gathered our gear, waved goodbye to some “fans” that we acquired during our stay and braved the surf. Once back onboard, we readied the vessel (and ourselves) for our first sail. Today’s destination was Leinster Bay and the Annaberg sugar mill. We sailed for two hours, had great wind and even spotted a dolphin and a sea turtle (yes, another seas turtle). The sugar mill was a nice experience, although the students appreciated the company of Dale and Charles, the two mill attendants, more then the ruins themselves. Dale had a number or riddles for them to decipher and Charles gave us all a tour of the local garden and even cut up some sugar cane to share. It was quite the treat. After returning to the vessel we quickly got our diving gear ready for an afternoon dive at Waterlemon Cay. Waterlemon Cay is a shallow cay with some of the elkhorn coral literally inches below the surface of the water. The students all took this a challenge and showed that their hard work and patience paid off. They all had successful dives and honed their skills with both the digital cameras and the PDA’s. Tonight we’ll review the work they’ve done over the past couple days and Deck Hand Trevor Browning (’05) is going to review some sea life identification techniques. Tomorrow we officially enter the British Virgin Islands and will sail to Norman Island and the caves. We’re a little tired, some of us sunburned and even a little sore…but we’re ready!
Day 3 Tuesday, Jan. 29 (Francis Bay & Cinnamon Bay)
“Did you see that nurse shark? I got it on video!” – Luke Stone ‘08
The third day had two distinct parts. First, was our morning in Francis Bay. There we made two dives, one with cameras, which went very well, and one with the PDA’s, which had mixed results. The windy conditions made for not only a challenging swim but also a tough time to attempt floating above the coral, getting an accurate GPS reading and then inputting all the information needed to pass along to the USGS. And this was a “practice” session! Dive highlights included seeing a nurse shark, a stingray and another sea turtle. Once done with our dives, we had a fulfilling lunch and then motored on to our second, and much anticipated destination, Cinnamon Bay. The waves were VERY large when we attempted to land at the beach, so large that we ended up having to pack our backpacks and cookout fixings in large plastic bags. Ironically, once ashore the students literally ran back to play in the waves that we’d cursed only minutes before. The campsite was a nice change and we all enjoyed the shower and the barbecue dinner, especially the s’mores! We also spent some time on the beach after dark, looking at a sky that sparkled a lot more brightly than what we remembered at home. Regardless, as the night went on the student’s stories seemed to all shift to Tabor and family. All-a-taut-o!
Day 2 Monday, Jan. 28 (Francis Bay)
“Did you guys see that turtle? It was huge!” – Hannah Stern ‘08
The second day began with a beautiful sunrise. Red Hook harbor was still rolling a little, much like it had the night before, but we were all feeling a lot better with a good nights rest behind us. After some calisthenics and a quick dip (in 82 degree water), we gobbled down breakfast and prepared to make our way over to Francis Bay at St. John. It was a nice, sunny cruise over and we savored the smells of the water and the sights of the brown, green and gray islands. Once at Francis Bay we reviewed what we had learned about snorkeling and put on our wetsuits and equipment. There were two scheduled dives that day, each with the students separated into groups and led by a crewmember. The students did very well and returned to the vessel with accounts of spotting hawksbill turtles, following nurse sharks, swimming through countless species of tropical fish and of course identifying (the focus of our research) Elkhorn coral. Our very busy day ended with a dinner of steak cooked on the deck grille, digital camera instruction, journal entries and some free time in the bowsprit. We were all in bed by 9:30pm and dreaming minutes later about the sights we’d seen today, the expectations of using cameras and PDA units tomorrow and of course of our friends and family back home. All-a-taut-o!
Day 1 Sunday Jan. 27 – Travel
“Hey look, snow!” – George Barrett ‘10
Sunday was cold. We all arrived at Logan International anxious and excited to start our journey. The airport lines were short and in no time at all we had cleared the ticket counter and security. A few of the students noticed quickly that light snow had begun to fall. Soon, we were all standing in front of the large windows, looking past the silver jetliners, to the gray skies and the snow. Honestly, we all had smiles on our faces because we knew that where we were going to be by the end of the day was going to be a lot warmer. Once aboard, we all found our seats and buckled in, preparing for what we thought would be a four-hour flight. Little did we know that we were going to have to sit through an hour and forty-minute delay. Still, our spirits remained high as we continued to watch the falling snow and the deicing solvent drip outside our small windows. Some of us began to think more about home and Tabor, and the snow that you were all getting. We smiled a little less this time. When we finally took off into the sky, we all took one last glance at the ground below. The flight itself was quite ordinary with only a couple turbulent stretches. When we finally touched down in St. Thomas we were easily able to brush away the thoughts of winter because we had landed in a paradise of 82 degrees. Making our way to Red Hook, the smiles were back as we drove on twisted and turning roads. Upon reaching the docks, each of us was now filled with excitement because we knew that within minutes we’d be on the SSV Tabor Boy and one step closer to starting what we all know would be an amazing experience.
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Caribbean Studies Program Director’s Log- January 15-24, 2008
Cruise 2: Dr. Karl Kistler
Day 8 Tuesday, Jan. 22
This morning we dispensed with the usual morning dip routine to get under way as soon as possible for the long sail through the Sir Francis Drake Channel from Virgin Gorda to Cruz Bay. We started up the fluorometer as the sails were raised. Once again we had excellent sailing conditions as we made the trip in about three hours. Once anchored outside of Cruz Bay, we received a briefing from the crew on how to proceed through the US customs office and some safety pointers for our two-hour excursion in town. We cleared customs without incident and enjoyed lunch and souvenir shopping in St. John. By 2:00, we were back aboard the schooner and sailed from Cruz Bay back to the now familiar Francis Bay where we will conduct our final day of coral research. We anchored there and set out for one more practice snorkel with our equipment. Cameras and PDAs seem to be working well and the students are getting proficient at gathering information and taking good photos of the coral. After a dinner of ziti and meatballs, we met in the deckhouse to review our photos and data collection techniques. The students are ready for tomorrow’s research day.
Day 7 Monday, Jan. 22
We awoke this morning to a driving rain that literally added an extra element to our morning calisthenics routine. After five rounds of jumping jacks and pushups, it was determined that we were wet enough from the rain that the morning dip was not necessary. After breakfast, the weather started to clear as we prepared to sail for Virgin Gorda and the baths. The headwinds were strong as we tacked back and forth across Sir Francis Drake Channel. By 12:30 we had arrived at the baths. Once again we loaded into the dinghy for a water landing. This time we went with only our bathing suits and a few waterproof cameras as we had to swim in from a depth that was over our heads. We landed at the beach and began to explore the baths. The kids had a great time climbing over and under the huge rock formations. Unlike prior expeditions, there were few other tourists to spoil the trip and we had the baths mostly to ourselves. After an hour and a half, the students slowly and reluctantly emerged from the baths, a bit scratched up perhaps, but thrilled with their adventures. After the baths, we returned to the schooner for a short sail to Marina Cay. Here we donned our snorkeling gear for another practice run identifying elkhorn coral. After an hour, each group had identified and cataloged an average of seven different elkhorn. We also made a less pleasant discovery; the PDAs are not indestructible. One of the devices returned with a cracked LCD screen. Luckily for this cruise, we have one spare. We’ll need to replace the broken one for the next cruise and ensure that we are extra careful with the remaining ones. After snorkeling, we had some time to get cleaned up for dinner. With a late dinner reservation at Pussers, we broke out the shampoo and everyone had a chance to suds up for the first time in a long time. With a fresh scent, we left the vessel at 7:00 for a visit to the Robb White house and Pusser’s gift shop before dinner at 8:00. The kids were impressed with the quality of the construction of the house. They thought that it would have been more rudimentary from the description in the book. Added on to the house is a porch and a bar, complete with its own Jimmy Buffett sound-alike. We arrived just as he was ending his set and he came by to say hello to our group. Dinner at Pusser’s was worth the wait. Ribs and fries were a common choice along with chocolate covered brownie with vanilla ice cream for desert. It was a late night with our group returning to the vessel at around 10:30 and going straight to bed.
Day 6 Sunday, Jan. 20
We awoke at Norman Island and after the usual morning routine, we set sail for Salt Island. Rather than take the usual route through the Francis Drake Channel, we sailed south of the Islands into the Caribbean Sea. This allowed us to get into deep water in order to use our XBTs in deep water. The expendable bathythermograph (XBT) is a small torpedo shaped device that we drop from the vessel while it is connected by a thin wire to a laptop computer on board. As the XBT decends, it measures the water temperature. We found that the temperature profile in the shallow water of the channel (80-90 ft) was relatively flat, trending downward from 84 degrees at the surface to 80 degrees at the bottom. However, in the depths of the Caribbean Sea, the temperature profile was much more extreme, dropping to 43 degrees at a depth of 2500 feet, the maximum range of our “Deep Blue” probes. Sailing south meant heading in open water which made for some pretty intense sailing. There were many green faces among our group as we crashed up and down in 8-10 foot waves. Even those who felt a little queasy thought that this was the most exciting sail so far. We arrived at Salt Island in time for lunch. After a lunch of pizza rolls and chicken noodle soup, we prepared for snorkeling the wreck of the RMS Rhone. Cap Geil regaled us all with the story of the how the Rhone sank while trying to escape a hurricane and showed us our route on the ship’s chart. Then we shuttled in the Avon a few hundred meters to the site. Here we saw turtles, many fish and the porthole of the ship. Then we returned to the Tabor Boy for a snack of cookies and pretzels. After a brief rest we departed again for Salt Island. We had heard stories of the caretaker and of the salt ponds and were ready to see them first hand. When we arrived at the island, there was no caretaker to visit. We did see a number of mounds of shells reputed to be the graves of past caretakers and a number of boarded-up buildings. Casey, the chief mate dreamed aloud of the resort space that he could make of this deserted island. After investigating the “settlement,” we found our way to the two salt ponds. They smelled bad and had a layer of foam near the edges, but I ventured out to the middle of one to take a water sample for later analysis. We then climbed up to the tallest peak on the island and took a group photo. As we descended, it began to rain and we took shelter on the porch of one of the abandoned buildings as we awaited our boat ride back to the schooner. Back on board, we had a dinner of chicken, rice, and corn. After dinner, we discussed the use of a refractometer to determine the salinity of water samples and compared the ships filtered water (~0.1 % salt) with seawater (3.8%) and the Salt Island pond water (40%). After our discussion, we were briefed on the next days events, a trip to the baths at Virgin Gorda, a visit to the Robb White house that we have read about in “Our Virgin Island,” and a dinner at Pusser’s Restaurant.
Day 5 Saturday, Jan. 19
Up again at 7:00 we conducted our exercises, had a breakfast of waffles and cereal and performed our morning cleanup routine. Today we motored from Leinster Bay to Soper’s Hole in order to officially enter the British Virgin Islands. From there, we set sail for Norman Island and its caves. For the first time, we set up the fluorometer and took readings of the chlorophyll levels in the water along the way. We’ll compare these readings to those taken on the previous cruise and with satellite data. Here were our best sailing conditions so far. We reached 12.5 knots as the ship heeled over to the point where the rails dipped under water. We arrived at Norman Island in near record time. At Norman Island we furled the sails and had a lunch of hot dogs, beans, chips, and salad. After lunch, it was snorkeling time. We gathered our gear and took a short dinghy ride to the island. Surrounding it, there were many fish and corals to be seen. As we approached Norman Island there were several caves that we swam into. They were eerie yet interesting to explore. On shore, we encountered hermit crabs and snails. From the shore, we returned to the vessel for yet another snack and some time for a free swim. The kids enjoyed testing their courage by jumping from the ratlines into the water. We enjoyed some free time before our dinner of meatloaf, potatoes, and green beans (another vegetable!) After dinner, we reviewed some coral photos, wrote in our journals, and discussed our visit to Salt Island tomorrow.
Day 4 Friday, Jan 18
When I awoke at 7:00 to pouring rain, I dreaded the idea of having to break camp in a downpour. But by 8:00 when I woke up the students, the rain had let up significantly. We cleaned up the campsite, packed the few belongings that we had brought, and were met at the beach by the dinghy for our return to the Tabor Boy. We sailed from Cinnamon Bay back past the familiar sights of Francis Bay around Mary’s Point to Leinster Bay. From the vessel we could see the ruins of the Annaberg sugar mill that we would visit after lunch. Again we boarded the dingy ready for a wet landing on shore and weren’t disappointed as one of the students slipped and took an unplanned swim as she dismounted the boat. After a quick hike up the hill, we arrived at the mill. Here we were greeted by a volunteer from the National Park Service who gave us a brief history of the island and the mill. We were treated to some coconut bread made by a local woman and were given a tour of the garden where we tasted sugar cane and smelled a variety of local plants. After thoroughly investigating the ruins, we returned to the shore and were taken back aboard the vessel. This afternoon we had time for one research practice dive. First we gathered in the deckhouse to review data collection procedures and ensure that we were on the same page regarding how to observe the coral. Then we geared up for another dive with our cameras and PDAs. The water was pretty choppy and there wasn’t much coral to see at Waterlemon Cay, but the kids still got some good practice with their equipment. The equipment seems to be working well. The kids find the screens difficult to read, but we found that if you hold the device away from the sun so that it is shaded from glare, it is easier to read. After our return to the vessel, we had a bit of free time as I downloaded and reviewed the afternoon’s data and pictures. After a dinner of chicken, noodles, and a rare vegetable, brocolli, we reviewed our photos, discussed coral disease and identification, and wrote in our journals. We discussed the next day’s sail to the British Virgin Islands and our visit to the caves on Norman Island. By now, the kids were falling asleep at the deckhouse table. They were ushered to bed at 9:30 to rest for the next day’s activities.
Day 3 Thursday, Jan. 17
It was a little harder for everyone to wake up this morning. But after a few rounds of calisthenics and the morning dip, everyone was awake and ready for breakfast. After breakfast and the morning cleanup routine, we prepared for a couple of rounds of snorkeling. In the first hour of snorkeling, we went out with the digital cameras and focused the basics of how to operate a camera underwater while doing all of the basic snorkeling things at the same time. We practiced photographing the array of living things that we have found underwater. The kids have quickly become good at underwater photography. After an hour, we returned to the vessel for a brief rest and the necessary snack and then went back in the water. This time we worked with the PDA as well. The kids began to practice using these handheld computers to document the location and health of elkhorn coral along the coast of St. John. After an hour of practice, we again returned to the schooner. After a lunch of sandwiches and chicken nuggets, we prepared to motor a short distance to Cinnamon Bay for our overnight camping adventure. Group by group, we loaded into the dingy with the provisions for our overnight stay. The boat took us to waist-deep water at the beach where we stepped out of the boat and held all of our gear over our heads to keep it dry. While the kids played on the beach, crew member Rob Aspinwal, ’02 and I checked in at the campsite. At Cinnamon Bay, the kids got to take a shower, albeit cold. We grilled burgers and hot dogs and made s’mores. Afterwards we played a game that I borrowed from our recent faculty in-service day. I divided the kids into two teams and gave them a common word. The teams then had to come up with songs that contained the word and then sing the portion of the song with the word. The game continues until one team cannot come up with a new song and the other team receives a point. This kept the kids entertained for hours as they, while deprived of their ipods, tried to recall their playlists and remember which songs had the word “ship” in them. Soon it was time to turn off our propane lanterns and turn in for the night.
Day 2 Wednesday, Jan 16
Officially awaken by the crew at 7:00, most of the kids were awake early and excited about their first full day in the Caribbean. After breakfast and morning cleanup, we had a boating safety briefing from Casey, the chief mate. By 9:30, the anchor was up and we were sailing toward Francis Bay. Along the way, the kids readily picked up their roles helping to sail, whether the were experienced Tabor Boy crew, “Orientation-at-Sea” veterans, or had never been on the vessel before. By 11:30 we were anchored in Francis Bay. After stowing the sails, and a buffet-style lunch, we prepared for our first snorkeling session. The kids were divided into five groups of three, each accompanied by a crew member. The goal here was for the students to get some practice snorkeling, to make sure all of their equipment worked, and for the crew to assess the students abilities. We entered the water from the schooner and swam to a spot near the shore where there was coral and fish to be seen. We began to explore the underwater world, observing a variety of fish, sea turtles, a spotted eagle ray, and, of course, the elkhorn coral that we are here to study. After an hour of snorkeling, we returned to the Tabor Boy for a brief rest and snack. Then we were back into the water for another hour of practice. When we swam back the second time, most of us were exhausted. However, some still had some energy left to climb a few rungs into the ratlines and jump into the water. Soon it was time for dinner. After dinner, we divided into our research teams who will work together for the remainder of the trip. We practiced using the underwater cameras and the new PDA units. So far, all of the equipment seems to be working fine. The real test will come when we get it in the water. Tonight we handed out the journal for the first time and the student spent a few minutes documenting the day’s adventures. Lights out at 10:00 couldn’t come early enough for some tired students (and instructors).
Day 1 Tuesday, Jan. 15
At 6:30 am, everyone had arrived, all packed, and ready to go. We had plenty of time to make our 9:50 flight allowing for traffic going into Boston and airport security lines. Unfortunately, the defrost function didn’t work on the Tabor van that was to take us to the airport and we had to wait nervously for a replacement van. The van arrived in plenty of time though. This proved to be the only glitch in a smooth trip from Tabor campus to the Tabor Boy. Along the way, our school sweatshirts and sports jackets drew the attention of other travelers including at least one alumnus. We flew from Boston to San Juan, PR and had a three-hour layover. Then we had a short flight in a propeller plane to St. Thomas where we were met by one of the crew. Remarkable, all of our baggage completed the flight with us. We loaded onto two large vans and followed the roller coaster of roads from the airport to the marina. There we were met by a dingy to shuttle us the schooner. After a late pizza dinner and a brief orientation to the boat, it was time for lights out at 10 p.m.
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Caribbean Studies Program Director’s Log- January 3-12, 2008
Cruise 1: Dr. John S. Crosby
Day 10 Saturday, Jan. 12th
HOME!
Day 9 Friday, Jan. 11th
Research Day! Finally, all the hard work and preparation boils down to this day. How much can we get done? Will our photos be good enough? Will the GPS units stay in one piece? How many colonies can we cover? Our first dive was scheduled for 9:00am. Conditions were very good, and we determined this was our best shot to get out around the northeast end of Whistling Cay, off Mary Point in Leinster Bay. Usually the swell is way too big for us to tackle an area so unprotected. For this reason the corals out around the Cay had never been characterized. Nobody really knew what was there. This morning the seas had calmed and there was a decent chance that we could get the work done. Groups were assigned transects, and delivered to their locations by avon. One group was assigned the task of counting sea urchins, an indicator species when it comes to the health of the reef. The NPS and USGS had asked us to devise a method for estimating their numbers on some of the reefs we were exploring. Normally a “mark/recapture” methods would be used to estimate the size of a population, but we were NOT about to capture these things once, let alone twice. We decided upon a simple repetitive count within the transects already assigned. This way, when we map the coral waypoints, we’ll have a clearly defined area to calculate urchin density. The first set of data were very encouraging, from a methods standpoint. The reefs have suffered dramatically the affects of storm surges and disease since we were her last. We rested for lunch and then his the water again by 1:30pm for the second of our three dives. Here we focused on an area on the south side of the cay. Many coral were located in the shallow water, and they were difficult to reach safely. The kids did a wonderful job and demonstrated some very good judgment regarding which colonies could be approached safely and which could not. Rain washed out our last dive of the day, but the students had already assembled more data than we had anticipated. They worked well under less than perfect conditions, and are truly proud of their accomplishment.
Day 8 Thursday, Jan 10
Everyone woke earlier than usually today as we had to get underway as soon as possible. There was no breeze, again, and we were resigned to motor all the back to Cruz Bay on St. John. Not bad from a science perspective, however, as this allowed Cap to plot a course straight through the deepest parts of the channel and us a chance to gather thermographic data using the XBTs (Expendable Bathythermographic) devices. We calculated that at 6 knots we could drop a probe every 15 minutes and sample the channel in 1.5 mile intervals. The students soon became accustomed to handling the equipment and we were quite successful using the XBTs for the first time. Once in Cruz Bay, we cleared customs and allowed the students to explore the town for a couple of hours. They found various places for lunch and no end to the number of T-shirt and souvenir shops. We were back on board by 2pm and then set sail for Francis Bay, where we would be completing our research over the next day and a half. Cap and I scouted the reef at Whistling Cay while the students furled sails and ready themselves for their last practice dive. We’ve had trouble with the PDA/GPS units all along. First mate Casey and I replaced the batteries yesterday and thought we had solved the problem, The continue to act up, however, either not acquiring any satellites or flashing randomly, freezing up and shutting off. The program had purchased back-ups this year, but the problem seems not to be limited to the older devices only. We’re working to come up with a solution. It may be that the work is done in shifts with the remaining functional units. This, however, puts and tremendous burden on the kids and crew as it would take many, many hours to complete even a modest amount of work. Another option is to take data without the GPS waypoint (which seems to be the problem) and organize the information into general, but still valuable trends regarding size, mortality and healing rates. We’ll discuss this tonight and see what the kids come up with. Whatever the decision, the kids are ready to do their job. They remain in good spirits in spite of the set-backs, and I’m confident they’ll produce some good work. Dinner of spaghetti and meatballs was followed by a detailed review of the practice dive data and photos. Lights out at 10pm.
Day 7 Wednesday, Jan 9
This was easily the most fun, exciting and frustrating day of the trip. We awoke to threatening skies, but very quickly they cleared to reveal bright sun and, again, no wind. There was no debate this day. After drifting across the channel yesterday, we motored all the way to Virgin Gorda and The Baths. The students set up the fluorometer without any prompting and faithfully took measurements every five minutes. Things were going well until the water was fouled by the ship’s bilge. The water intake to the fluorometer is below the vessel and we ended up pumping a significant amount of “black water” into a very sensitive piece of equipment. Needless to say, the data were skewed and I spent a good deal of time flushing the instrument, taking apart the optics, and recalibrating it to the previous standard. After running seawater through again we’re pretty certain we’re operating within out original parameters. The Baths were the greatest adventure of the week. Tabor Boy rounded up at 10:30am and the students gathered their masks, snorkels and fins for a snorkel of the boulders just southeast of the beaches. The conditions were perfect and the kids were treated to the best dive of the trip. Massive boulders, abundant marine life, small caves and arches to explore; it took about an hour to navigate the various passages. Once at the beach the avon arrived to pick up the student’s gear and we all swam the 100 meters or so to shore. On the beach we took time for a short review of the geology of island formation and the history of the Caribbean plate. Just as they were released to explore, the rain started. The students turned this into a challenge as they saw waves of tourists fleeing the beach and huddling and complaining under the rocks. Not our kids! They charged up boulders and crawled through narrow passageways in an attempt to find any way through the maze other than the prescribed trail. Lines of fitful tourists were either amused or somewhat perplexed as a loud, laughing, scampering, kids were taking impossible paths through house-sized boulders and shallow “baths” of seawater! They were perfect; happy, athletic, and together. First Mate Casey and Katie Boynton led the way with US Marine-like charges into unknown caverns and over rain-soaked rocks. We returned to the schooner in time for lunch and immediately weighed anchor and motored toward Marina Cay, just off Tortola. The fluorometer seem to be working fine and we were at the cay in about half and hour. The students geared up for another practice dive off the reef opposite the cay. Unfortunately a number of our GPS/PDA units weren’t functioning. Some of the research groups when without them as Casey and I pulled the units apart and replaced some of the batteries. Upon their return the kids wanted to clean up (wash, shampoo, clean clothes, etc) before dinner out. By 5 pm we were headed to the cay and then browsing the shop and looking forward to a great dinner. The students were in great spirits as we headed up the hill to visit Rob and Rodie White’s house. We read “Our Virgin Island” this fall and were anxious to see the actual house. Rob and Rodie headed to the BVI in the 1930’s looking for solitude. They purchased the tiny cay and built a small home there, where the lived for a very short time before WWII. It’s a sad adventure, and standing in the house makes the story truly come alive. Dinner at Pusser’s restaurant was amazing! We’re all preparing for a long day tomorrow. We need to sail back to Cruz Bay on St. John to clear customs. The kids will take a couple hours to tour the town before we return to the vessel and to Francis Bay for one more practice run before our full research day on Friday. Tomorrow we also get to try the XBTs for the first time. We’ve plotted waypoints along our route to St. John and are prepared to drop 12-14 sensors into the channel for real time graphing of the temperature from surface to bottom. The plan is to plot a different course for each cruise and to therefore cover a significant portion of the channel. Lights out at 10pm.
Day 6 Tuesday, Jan 8
Another beautiful day. Seas were calm owing to the stillness of the air. With little breeze, Capt. Geil got under way with sails furled. Motoring directly to Salt Island would have been relatively quick, and we were well on our way when our desire to sail and to make a tack into the channel to collect more chlorophyll data overcame any desire we had to get the Salt Island quickly. Cap turned off the diesel as soon as the sails were set and we parted the sea at a blistering 3 knots heading northeast toward Tortola. Almost to Roadtown, Cap called for the vessel to come about and turned us back toward Salt Island remarking, “It’s time to drift in another direction for awhile”. In spite of the uninspired sail, the students had set up the equipment by themselves and were busily collecting data for the entire sail. We’re confident that we’re covering a good deal of the channel and are eager to see the datapoints plotted on a map. These chlorophyll concentration data will be compared to the satellite data. We had lunch just as we dropped the anchor. Our first order of business was to get the students out to the wreck of the RMS Rhone, the British mail steamer sunk in a hurricane off the coast of Salt Island in 1886. Before they entered the water, Cap gave a short instruction on our current position, our most recent movements and, the delight of the kids, a history of the Rhone and the circumstances surrounding it’s sinking. Cap’s stories are wonderful to listen to, and the students remark that he has a true knack for telling them. In the water the kids quickly found the stern of the giant (315’) steamer in about 15 feet of water. The prop, rudder, housing and engine room were clearly visible. Cap and Rick (deckhand) scuba’d to the bow of the vessel in about 80’ of water. They saw a huge lobster, puffer fish, and a large Moray eel. I scuba’d the stern down to the break at mid-ship at about 55 ft. I was joined, briefly by Collin Geil and Jackie Donahue at the engine room, about 30 feet beneath the surface. They were free-diving. Youth! We returned to the vessel in time for a snack and a brief rest before going ashore for a hike on the island. The caretaker was “home” but in no shape to communicated with us or to help us navigate the ruined compound that he, and previous caretakers, had occupied. The last time I was here there were seven gravesites, each holding a past caretaker. It seems to be an “end of career” position, and this time there were ten gravesites. The current occupant of the caretaker’s cottage seemed to be ready to make it an odd number once again. We reviewed what we knew about the island and why it was so important for three centuries. Salt was harvested from the two ponds that occupy the interior of the island. We hiked to the top of the northernmost peak to see the island in total and to get our bearings. Tortola looked only a stone’s throw away across the channel and Virgin Gorda loomed in the distance to the east. The “fat virgin” was what Columbus reportedly saw upon viewing the islands for the first time in 1495 (second trip). He must have been at sea a long time. Tomorrow we head for Virgin Gor | | | |
